Why it matters to the pipes
A sump pump collects groundwater from the foundation drainage and sends it outside before it reaches the basement floor. It may sit idle for weeks, then run every few minutes during the spring melt or a summer thunderstorm. The pump that fails is very often the one nobody has checked in years, and the failure usually coincides with heavy rain.
In much of Etobicoke, sump pits were added to older homes when foundation drains were disconnected from the sewer, so pumps of quite different ages and quality are in service. Some were installed hurriedly after a flood and never revisited. Knowing what you have, and how old it is, is the first part of keeping it working.
Have to hand
- A flashlight and a bucket
- Old towels and a pair of gloves
- The way to the main valve
Put the tools down if
- Water will not stop at the valve
- Sewage rises in a floor drain
- You smell gas near the heater
The steps, in order
Set aside about ten minutes each spring and autumn, and again before you travel.
- Look at the plug. The pump should have its own live receptacle, ideally a ground-fault type. Avoid extension cords.
- Lift the lid and look. Remove debris, gravel or silt from the pit. Make sure nothing restricts the float.
- Test the cycle. Fill the pit gently from a pail. Watch the float lift, the motor come on, the water level drop and the pump fall silent.
- Listen. A gritty grind, a rattle, or a motor humming while the water sits still all mean trouble.
- Check the check valve. After the pump shuts off, water should not flow back into the pit from the discharge pipe.
- Follow the discharge outside. The outlet should be clear of leaves, ice and soil, and send water well away from the foundation.
- Try the standby. Where a battery unit is fitted, unplug the main pump and let it run and note the battery's age.
Common missteps
- Connecting the discharge to the sanitary drain. In Toronto, sump water must go to the surface, not the sewer.
- Letting the outdoor outlet freeze in winter, which stops the pump from emptying.
- Running the pump on the same circuit as a freezer or furnace without checking the load.
- Shrugging off a pump that cycles on and off through a dry spell, which may mean a stuck float or a faulty check valve.
When to ring for help
Call if the pump fails the bucket test, cycles constantly, runs without moving water, or is approaching ten years old. We can replace it, add a battery or water-powered backup, and check that the discharge route is correct. A pump is one part of a wider approach; our basement flood prevention page explains the others.
Homes with a backwater valve should check that too. Our guide to backwater valve maintenance covers it. For help with either, call (365) 816-2905.